Hello Friends,
It’s beginning to look a lot like something over here. Cookbooks are strewn across my desk (that is, the living room table), the laundry room has been appropriated for sparkling wine storage and my closet is holding secrets aplenty, but only of the edible and delicious kind. There hasn’t yet been time to bake – those efforts start in a few weeks. For now, most of my work is sitting. And writing.
Have you started a holiday wish list or to-do list? Been sent one? Wasn’t it just July 4th a minute ago? Wherever you are in your season’s planning, find some time for cooking and for a hike or a bike ride or a yoga session. If it hasn’t already, the season of eating and drinking is about to begin in earnest.
I’ve got a couple of fun events to kick The Seasong of Eating and Drinking off in style, some thoughts on restaurants I’ve recently visited, and – yes – my first giant holiday list is here. First out of the gate is cookbooks. Late arrivals are still flowing in so a couple more may make it onto the list.
Send thoughts on what you’re cooking, eating, doing, reading. Was it delicious? And don’t forget: I’ll be in your inbox three times in December. Once we hit January, it’s back to monthly.
What’s Hot:
Not all together and not all at the same time. These are just a few of the food and food-adjacent events that have caught my attention in late autumn.
Still image from The Truffle Hunters
Miracle at Brewsters Beer Garden (Nov 20 – Jan 2)
Reservations strongly recommended, especially on weekends, but not required.
Barrel Tree Lighting at Beringer Vineyards (Nov 27)
I did not know there was such a thing as a barrel tree but lighting one sounds very Napa. Head to St. Helena’s Beringer Vineyards who lay claim to the largest wine barrel tree. Built from 109 recycled oak wine barrels, the “tree” is 36 feet (just shy of 4 stories) tall. From 5-7 p.m., revelers can enjoy live music and bites, photos with Santa, and the lighting ceremony.
This barrel tree will be up and lighted until January 1, 2025 and will include QR codes for 20% off a tasting experience. Sweet!
Learn More About Beringer’s Barrel Tree Lighting
Jingle & Mingle at Carneros Resort & Spa (Dec 1-8)
Sure, there are photos with Santa, gourmet cider, and hot chocolate. But this week-long event at the resort’s open-air “Town Square” includes a pop-up Christmas tree farm, live music, sip-and-shop designer trunk shows, wreath and candle-making classes, and the possibility to rest for a moment at POST, the resort’s wine- and cocktail bar.
Reservations are not required and more information can be found on the resort’s Experiences page.
Flavors of Film: The Truffle Hunters (Dec 7)
Restaurants On My RADAR
The weather is cooler. Lights are going up around town. And I’m thinking about classic restaurants. Call it a holiday season wish for the familiar but I’m leaning into places ‘where everybody knows your name’ this time around.
I didn’t make it to Oyster Fest Wednesday but the bar was packed on Tuesday when I visited Prospect in San Francisco’s FiDi recently. I loved my low ABV New Dawn cocktail –what could be wrong with Campari and Lillet Blanc in the same drink? Nothing, I tell you, nothing! Lukas tried a zero-proof Hawaiian Wink with pineapple and coconut cream while Niki went for lemonade. Hot Honey Brussels Sprouts were declared by Niki to be “the best I’ve ever had,” while I loved roasted duck breast with parsnip puree. Maitake Mushrooms with Thai Red Curry Aioli were another hit at the table – and they presented beautifully, too (see above image on far left).
I finally made it to San Francisco’s Wayfare Tavern which just might be the New Yorkiest restaurant this side of the Rockies. The vibe is all dark wood and exposed brick. The bar is boisterous and there’s plenty of wide benches for after-work groups to sit and enjoy a Side Car or a glass of wine. Chef Tyler Florence’s interpretations of Dungeness Crab Cocktail and Prime Beef Tartare are West Coast classic. And an extra thank you for having real candles on the table (love those) – they add a graceful touch that warm up the clubby room. I tried the Heritage Bone-in Pork Chop, too, and I’m here to tell you, it’s done right – juicy with a crisp sear. if you’ve never tried them, Wayfare’s Smashburger and the house-made doughnuts are worth the trip. Count calories later.
On San Francisco’s Embarcadero, not far from the Ferry Building, Bon Delire is a sweet new French bistro from the same team behind nearby Sens and Barcha. Steak Frites arrives with pepper sauce hit the top of my list for perfectly executed medium-rare. Kudos, team! Chefs reading this: go check out this steak and report back on its texture, color and temperature. I was impressed. They’ve also got cured meats from Incontro which are off the hoook.
In San Jose, one-Michelin Adega reopened their doors on November 15. The dining room and expansive Portuguese wine list are exactly the same. The food is still a multi-course (seven) experience but this “new” iteration of Adega looks towards the future.
Where before there was caldo nero and braised octopus, now there is an amuse bouche of four tastes (sardine loin, cuttlefish and potato croquette, clam tartare, and octopus with seaweed), pumpkin rice with a pumpkin seed lattice, swordfish with white dill sauce, and pera mille feuille (gluten-free!). I was happy to see the crab still served in its carapace. That passion fruit foam is bomb!
More traditional Portuguese fare? That’s at chef Costa’s sister restaurant, Petiscos.
Holiday Cookbook Column
This year (2024), 19 cookbooks hit the holiday gift list. I wish I had a team of cooks to recipe test every recipe but, alas, it’s just me.
Each of the cookbooks in my list focuses on an individual’s story. Rogelio Garcia of Auro at Four Seasons Napa Valley, intertwines Mexican cuisine with his California story. Jersey Boy Tom Colicchio’s Why I Cook looks at his journey as a cook and the forces that shaped his life, encouraging him not only to cook professionally but to advocate for social justice. Sonoko Sakai considers Japanese flavor through the lens of her life’s experiences living around the world in Wafu Cooking.
My list is personal – I choose to focus on chefs based in the American West where I live, in New Jersey where I grew up, and books from chefs and cooks around the world whose cooking inspires me. That includes seasonally-appropriate The Unofficial Elf Cookbook from Arizona’s Jackie Alpers, global cuisine to cook with children in A Taste of the World from New York-based Rowena Scherer, and Aebleskiver from San Francisco-based Pim Pauline Overgaard, because everyone from your keto friend to your gluten-free and paleo cousin needs doughy treats over the holidays.
During the quieter season of winter, my wish is that you choose one or two to guide your senses and your kitchen and cooking spirit. May your journey be one of grace, deliciousness, and more than a little curiosity.
Read my 19 cookbook reviews on my blog.
Purchase links are embedded in each review.
Thanks to everyone who sent suggestions of delicious drinks and eats for consideration for my annual holiday gift guides – boozy, foodie, sparklers and cookbooks. The suggestion box is CLOSED. As noted above, I’ll be appearing in your inbox in coming weeks with ALL the goodies.
About That Image
Never once has my child said “these are the best” about Brussels sprouts. At Prospect, they are zhuzhed up with cinnamon and vanilla-spiced walnuts, pickled persimmon pieces, and hot honey vinaigrette. There was just enough sweetness to balance their cruciferous character. The gorgeous golden-orange-hued persimmon and colorful edible flowers prettied up the dish, eye candy for the teens and adults. There were none leftover.
Thanks for reading and be in touch.
Christina