How did it escape my attention that Chef José Andrés, creator of the Salt Air Margarita, was a protégé of Ferran Adrià, he of the el Bulli lab-slash-kitchen known for modernist cuisine inventions like white bean foam and spherification (whereby calcium glucate lactate is used to shape a liquid into squishy spheres)? Perhaps because in 1995, I was at business school, aiming at a career in the technology industry. (I did not become a food writer until 2011.)
Yet that year – 1995 – is when Mr. Andrés is said to have begun his experiments with foam, air, and other techniques to level up his cocktails.
Fast-forward to 2026. I’m cruising around California with my 17-year-old son on college tour. I notice a trend — The Salt Air Margarita, now a signature of Mr. Andrés’ cocktail menus, has evolved, both within the José Andrés Group and elsewhere.
Mr. Andrés explains how he came up with the idea of the Salt Air Margarita on his podcast, Longer Tables with José Andrés. It boils down to Chef’s dislike of salt on the rim of a margarita glass, then using molecular gastronomy to devise “a better margarita.” He calls it “salt air,” I call it “sea foam.” Either way, the recipe is there for you to try it yourself.
Meanwhile, here’s a few of the foamy, savory, spirited margaritas I’ve spotted around California.
Zaytinya, Palo Alto – Za’atar Margarita
At José Andrés’ restaurant chain dedicated to the Mediterranean cuisine of Greece, Turkey, and Lebanon, the Salt Air Margarita finds its natural evolution in a cocktail where the foam is infused with za’atar spice – thyme, oregano, sumac, and toasted sesame seeds. The result is a savory, toasty sea foam that counterbalances the lime in the drink’s base. It paired beautifully with Brussels Afelia as well as Sesame Salmon with golden ladolemono (lemon-olive oil sauce).
Butterfly, Culver City – Salt Air Margarita
A Mexican restaurant in greater Los Angeles from the José Andrés Group serves up the original Salt Air Margarita. Jopus Grevelink, Senior Beverage Manager at José Andrés Group, clarifies the difference between the original and the Zaytinya version:
There is one major difference between the Za’atar Margarita at Zaytinya and the Salt Air Margarita at Butterfly. At Butterfly, the recipe follows our original Salt Air Margarita recipe to the letter. In the Zaytinya variation, we whip Za’atar spice into the salt foam recipe with an immersion blender to activate the spice within the foam, giving earthy, tangy notes. Then we sprinkle Za’atar spice onto the salt foam, so the spice aromas are the first thing the guest encounters.
Nice!
BOA Steakhouse, Santa Monica – Ocean View
The drink’s Casa Azul Organico Blanco Tequila is hit with just enough Ace guava cider, lime, and pineapple to balance sweet and sour notes, akin more to a pisco sour in my book than a margarita. The drink is topped with “salt air” and lime zest. Consider this one the zestiest, snappiest drink of the cocktails included here.
Caruso’s, Montecito – Caruso’s Margarita
One-Michelin star Caruso’s leans into a sense of place by embracing the flavors of Santa Barbara and the Central Coast. Chef-Partner Massimo Falsini’s four-course, Italian-Californian tasting menu embraces the vibrant agricultural landscape of the region. In the house margarita, the foam is designed with citrus flavors, the orange notes boosted with a touch of orange oleo mixed with lime and Clase Azul Plata tequila. I call it an ode to the surf scene right outside the restaurant’s door.
Stillwater, Pebble Beach – Salt + the Sea
With inimitable views across the 18th hole at Pebble Beach to the Pacific Ocean, you may be tempted to visit this restaurant for the views or the chance to hob nob with golf cognoscenti and all-around gold nerds. But why not go for a tequila cocktail and enjoy the sunset? Made with Maestro Dobel PB Barrel tequila, the drink starts off smooth, like a two year-old añejo. Then, the citrus sea foam floats across your palate and – boom! – hooked on this drink for life. Guess I’ll have to go back and play a round…
For more drinks coverage, consider how tonic has escaped its gin straightjacket.