My monthly look at restaurants in the Bay Area and beyond includes Celtin Henrickson-Jones’ Prelude and Kappo Yuji in San Francisco, the chameleon-like rooftop hotspot Rise Over Run, a diner with Japanese-American flavors in Napa, and ramen worth seeking out in San Rafael.
SAN FRANCISCO
I had no idea what self-described “contemporary Southern cooking” could mean before I sat down at Prelude in the FiDi. Halibut Tartare with puffed farro and sorrel was 100% Californian while Smoked Catfish Dumplings with Crawfish Étouffée was 100% Acadian. I loved Sorghum-lacquered Grilled Squab, the crisp skin and tender flesh slicked with savory-sweet glaze and a fine foil for truffle jus. Best of all was Hominy Grits (mine served dairy-free) – coarse-cut Bloody Butcher Corn served with slices of cured Virginia ham, toasty kale salad, and Old Bay-poached shrimp. Even though the dessert was corny – a re-vamp of mid-20th-century Ambrosia Salad, do sit, sip, and savor this Michelin-recommended gem – Stefan and I are still talking about the meal for the many twists, turns, and flavor experiences we encountered.
The Chinatown block of Jackson Street between Grant and Kearny is chock-a-block with exceptional dumplings, Peking duck and bao of all kinds. I popped into Fusion Dumpling especially for the delicate Oolong-smoked Duck served in a carved wood box. The subtle tea flavor hugged the sweet meat in a most gracious way, a dish worth sitting down for. If eating for the I-G is more your style, try the Crabmeat Lomein. A cascade of noodles spills into a glossy bowl filled with red crab and fresh herbs. The cutest dish of the day? Pan-fried Pork Bao, their puffy and white tops hiding tender minced pork, tasted as good as they looked.
As Golden Hour turned to evening, what a hoot it was to watch tables full of families and kids transition to gals in high heels and short shorts and tech bros in hoodies at Rise Over Run, the rooftop dining destination atop Mid-Market’s Timbri Hotel. I was delighted that Muhammara was 100% gluten-free – none in the dip, and served with chips instead of pita — perfect! A tiered tray of hand-held goodies – deviled eggs, little salads, pork belly skewers and crab cakes – was good fun. Though I’d have liked the frites in my plate of Steak Frites to be hotter, I blame the howling fog breeze for cooling them down. By the time dessert was served, I switched to hot tea to go with creamy Pandan Rice Pudding.
Walk up a flight of rickety stairs, pull open a dusty glass door and don’t trip like I did on the step up into Kappo Yuji, a nine-seat, 10-course jaunt through Japanese seasonal cooking in Japantown from Chef Hirohiko Sato. A tiny squid was just one of the perfectly portioned appetizers that began a meal of delicate tastes – Tofu Skin flavored with yuzu, Hata Hata (Japanese handle fish) with pickled daikon and lime, A5 Wagyu from Kagoshima Prefecture, Chawanmushi with truffle and ikura, rice cracker-breaded fish with mustard salt, and a double header of seasoned fish and rice and brown miso with clams. Chef’s exacting technique and passion for flavor was evident in every “simple is hard” bite. Yuji is a tiny showcase of Japanese flavor. Just goes to show you that first impressions are not always what they seem.
I chose the Pescatarian tasting menu at a recent dinner at The Marina’s TIYA, Of the nine dishes that crossed my palate, my dish of the night was the Barramundi Kizhi. Soft/tender yet firm when I pushed down with a fork, the texture was incredible. Green mango in the Alleppey curry was downright thrilling and delicious. What I know about the flavors of the Indian subcontinent would fit into my little finger but after this mind-expanding meal, I hope to learn more about the chefs and brothers Sarkar and their culinary gifts. What a night!
North Bay/Wine Country
Refined broths with plenty of umami are at the center of the menu in San Rafael’s Chonmage Ramen where a vegan version of the classic Tonkatsu Ramen recently splashed onto the Marin dining scene. I loved (loved!) Tokyo Tan Tan Ramen, its sesame-thickened broth a one-two punch of savoriness and chile. Of course, I had it with gluten-free noodles, seated in a booth in the middle of the room, the kitchen’s curtains waving in the spring breeze. Where am I again? Next time, I have to try the Curry Rice – this may be the only place in Marin which serves this classic of Japanese soul food cooking.
Japanese flavors with just enough Idaho potatoes create a strong thread of connection to the story of George and Kin, the Pocatello-based farmers who inspired the eponymously-named diner. I so wanted to try the udon soup with potato foam and the morning toast with milk bread, but, alas – glutenfull. Miso-vegetable Soup was thick with vegetables and hinted at white miso. A classic Cobb also hinted of miso in the dressing. Sesame Slaw was better than 99% of cole slaw I’ve ever eaten (way less mayo) but my highlight was Tallow Fries. A dusting of umami seasoning combined with chipotle-kewpie aioli was addictive. Plus, I love that there is a restaurant in Napa with fun, flavor-forward food that doesn’t cost a jillion bucks to enjoy.
Not long after I settled in for a six-course vegetarian tasting menu at La Toque, a Michelin-recommended restaurant not far from downtown Napa, did I realize that Chef Ken Frank’s still got it. Chef, whose been manning the stoves for some 47 years, brings a passion for turning exceptional ingredients into exciting food to every plate he creates. I’ve already spoken highly of Chef’s take on noodles – the dish was a highlight – but every dish expressed the same considered flavorfulness. For once, I agree whole-heartedly with Michelin’s view. What the what!?!?
Interested in more restaurant coverage? Here’s the restaurants I covered in May.