A medieval-looking contraption can be thanked for panettone’s fluffy texture. Envision two long poles with nails jutting out: These pierce the bottom of the brioche, which are then inverted to hang overnight.

“The pastry is so rich in butter, it will lose the height created in the oven and the pastry will collapse,” panettone master Gary Rulli says.

After 40-plus years making panettone, Rulli continues to craft Panettone Genovese (less egg yolks and butter yield a denser crumb) and Panettone Milanese (more egg yolks and butter yield a lighter, richer crumb) all year. Pandoro, a Veronese creation with even more butter and a distinctive star-shaped design, is baked only during the peak holiday season.

Read the rest of the story and find Rulli’s panettone recipe (adapted for the home baker) at Edible Marin & Wine Country.