My monthly look at restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area and beyond includes Anzu restaurant, a hidden gem in San Francisco’s Union Square, the return of Mill Valley’s El Paseo with Nikkei style, and an unexpected delight at North Block in Napa’s wine country.

SAN FRANCISCO

A mid-week jaunt to Anzu, tucked inside Hotel Nikko near San Francisco’s Union Square, was a revelation of flavor. Though you can go the full 13 courses, Stefan and I chose the seven-bite Petite Omakase from Chef Jason Francisco’s Modern Omakase menu. I was especially taken with Scallop Crudo, the mollusk served in-shell, dressed with lime vinaigrette that tugged at sweetness before the warmth of pickled chile rolled over my palate. Chef managed to lift the briny sweetness of the scallop even further with a drizzle of scallion oil and caviar. Miso Salmon was a second thrill, the artisanship of the roll a nod to Rothko’s abstract designs, the nori dust and spicy miso adding complexity. I liked it so much, I ordered another.

For another big occasion, we headed to Spruce in San Francisco’s Presidio Heights neighborhood. I very much enjoyed my Grilled Abalone with almond crumble and Dry-Aged Duck two-ways with peated beetroot and shio-koji goat cheese which made my belly happy! (I really need to figure out how to do this at home.) But it was a dessert of creamy, decadent Chocolate Sorbet draped with gold leaf that helped push Spruce onto this month’s list.

Stefan and I made our annual wedding anniversary pilgrimage to the Mission’s Foreign Cinema. A plate of Tsar Nicolai caviar arrived with gluten-free papadum — I guess they know me by now!  – and of course Stefan ordered the fried chicken. The best dish of the night, though, was calamari with chorizo, fried artichokes and salsa macha. An undeniable umami bomb. So good.

North Bay/Wine Country

An early fall visit to try the new menu from Chef Antonio Natal at Yountville’s North Block was one of the most memorable meals of the year. Why? Kind, attentive service played a big part, music that lifted the mood – and of course, the food on the plate. Chef’s Hokkaido Scallop Risotto, the carnaroli rice aged with saffron, was deeply flavorful, the saffron’s savory-bitter edge tempered with sweet yellow corn, then lifted with marinated tomato. The consideration of flavor continued in Iberico Secreto. It’s a marbled pork cut from a well-raised animal, the meat’s natural sweetness enhanced with grilled stone fruit mostarda and a swirl of balsamic glaze. We’re still talking about the evening and what a treat it was.

On a brisk Friday, we could not be immediately seated when we arrived at San Anselmo’s Tu Tâp. The delay meant time for drinks and the revelation of spicy goodness that was Calimansi Heat cocktail. Spicy tequila and pineapple swirled with falernum and calamansi juice was bright tingly warmth. Don’t forget to lick the li hing mui chile-dusted rim. It left tajín in its brightly colored dust.

I am tickled pink that Lima Nikkei has figured out a way to enliven the classic indoor-outdoor space that is Mill Valley’s historic El Paseo. The Peruvian-Japanese cooking means plentiful ceviches and small plates, the perfect way to spend an hour before or after a movie at the theater next door. I indulged in a Kyoto Garden mocktail with yuzu and cucumber and enjoyed Salmon Apaltado Ceviche, Dungeness Crab Handroll, and Roasted Cauliflower on edamame hummus, zhushed up with anticuchera sauce. All gone in moments. The candlelighted patio is 100% charming but the bar is where the action is, especially after dinner.

East Coast

Mom and I needed to do some shopping at Columbus Circle and timed it right to snag a last-minute table for lunch at Momofuku’s uptown Noodle Bar. Steamed Buns stuffed with pork belly arrived two to a plate, the tug of five-spice scented glazed pork belly a familiar delight. More pork belly in Habanero Rice Cakes, the sauce thickly slicked over the rice nuggets sweet and creamy at first bite before transitioning to spicy, bright, and nutty from their toss in grana Padano cheese and Thai basil. “Too spicy,” Mom said. “Just right,” said I.

Interested in more restaurant coverage? Here’s the restaurants I covered in October.