Hello Friends,
I’m sitting in a hotel room in Anaheim. My window overlooks an industrial park and a highway. I’m here for ExpoWest, the enormous consumer packaged goods show at the Anaheim Convention Center to see, in real time, the future of food and drink. Bubbly functional beverages, dear reader, ones loaded with L-theanine and cordyceps, are in your future. And perhaps some coconut yogurt with black sesame or a soft-boiled egg, drippy yolk and all, made from soy and chickpea protein.
Except for the fatigue of standing all day, it’s a nice way to spend a work week, dropping into educational seminars (patented akkermansia and breast milk, anyone?) and meet up with industry friends for coffee talk. There’s even a restaurant highlight or two. More on that below.
What’s Hot:
Not all together and not all at the same time. These are just a few of the food and food-adjacent events that have caught my attention in February.
Scallops en croute at Valette
Fork2Film Festival (March 6-9)
Y’all know I can totally nerd out on food films but a whole festival of food films? Drool! That’s what’s happening this weekend in St. Helena with 14 foodie films paired with culinary experiences. It’s a lot to take in but here are a few highlights:
- Veselka, as narrated by David Duchovny, takes a look at the pressures faced by the second-generation owner of New York’s beloved Ukrainian restaurant paired with a Culinary Experience by Natalia’s Dacha
- Science journalist Ziya Tong investigates the growing threat of microplastics in Plastic People by visiting leading scientists around the world and undergoing experiments in her home, on her food, and her body.
- Farming While Black is a feature-length documentary film examining the rising generation of Black farmers reclaiming their rightful ownership to land and reconnecting with their ancestral roots.
Here’s the full schedule and all the details
The Bungalow Kitchen’s New Brunch (from March 8)
Chef Michael Mina’s “better half,” Diane, is not as well-known as her globe-trotting, restaurant-opening husband. But those in the know are in on her delicious Bloody Marys. At Tiburon’s waterfront restaurant, upstairs is the place to be on Saturdays and Sundays. Launching this weekend is Diane’s Bloody Mary Brunch, a two-course prix fixe with Michael’s favorite daytime appetizers (jalapeño lobster toast, tempura maitake mushrooms) and entrees (steak & eggs, ginger-scallion brick chicken).
The bigger news? Eight variations of Diane’s Marys are available, as is Chef Yamasan’s sushi menu and Michael’s signature pot pie. The whole shebang runs from 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., weekends only, so don’t dawdle.
Culinary Clash to Support Rising Stars (Mar 9, 16, 23)
By now, I hope you know how much I love Dennis Efthymiou’s cooking at San Francisco’s Luce – his dishes made two of my recent “best of” lists, Top Bites in 2024 and Top Dishes of 2023.
Over the next three Sundays, Chef turns his awesome kitchen over to rising culinary stars for the 14th Annual fundraiser for CCSF’s Culinary Arts & Hospitality Studies Department, Culinary Clash. Six rising CCSF students showcase three-course fine-dining menus as they compete for scholarships and cash prizes. CCSF Culinary Arts & Hospitality Studies students gain unprecedented real-world kitchen experience while a panel of special guest judges weigh in.
Diners also receive “scorecards” so make a reservation and weigh in. It’ll be hard to pick a date – I’m all in on the oxtails on March 16 – but maybe the menus (below) will help you decide?
March 9: Jake McCarthy & Matt South
First Course: Oysters Three Ways – Chilled (mignonette, citrus pearls), Grilled (strawberry, balsamic), Tempura (yuzu aioli, shiso)
Main Course: Duck Three Ways (Five Spice-BBQ gastrique; Katsu with tonkatsu sauce, slaw, rice; Mousse with puffed rice, mandarin, pea tendrils)
Dessert: Red Bean-Calamansi Cannoli; Gelato, citrus mousse, candied citrus
March 16: Azjenea Allen & Marquis Johnson
First course: Shrimp Andouille sausage | Grilled| Layered over Black-Eyed Pea Salad with a Honey Vinaigrette. Fried dehydrated Okra| Bay leaf emulsion.
Main course: Oxtails & Collard greens with citrus sauce and sweet potato puree.
Dessert: Tangerines in spiced Vanilla Bourbon sauce; biscuit topping; Carmelized Pecans; Tangerine ice cream
March 23: Alex Hacker & Tash House
First course: Kanpachi Crudo (avocado meyer lemon crema, pickled fresno chilies, pea shoots, caviar)
Main course: Harissa Honey Lamb tenderloin with honey pesto, Romanesco puree, sautéed romanesco, crispy baby artichokes
Dessert: Goat Basque Cheesecake
Strawberry compote, caramelized rhubarb, smoked honey tuile, Nasturtium flowers
You Be the Judge and Make a Reservation
Valette’s 10th Anniversary Dinners (March 10-16)
Ten years in the restaurant biz means it’s time to party for chef-owner Dustin Valette of Healdsburg’s Valette. Savor seven nights’ worth of favorites, like Roasted Carrot Soup & Rabbit Torchon, Liberty Farms’ Duck Duo and – a personal favorite – ItsNotA ‘Snickers Bar’ Deux. Choose the four-course “10 Years of Valette” menu or the 6-course “Best of the Best” menu for even more deliciousness.
4 courses / $95 pp or 6 courses / $175 pp
Huniik at Bar Crenn (March 12 & 13)
Are you familiar with the work of Mérida, Mexico-based chef, Roberto Solís? He helms the stoves at Huniik, recognized as #36 on the list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. Chef Solís and his innovative approach to Yucatecan cuisine will be at Le Comptoir at San Francisco’s Bar Crenn for what is being billed as a “taco omakase experience.” The menu sounds super-humble – Grilled Herbs Taco with hoja santa, Baby Corn Taco with papadzul hollandaise, Fish Sashimi Taco, Cochinita Mussel Taco, and Tuna and Sea Urchin Taco – but in Solis’s hands, is sure to be a life-changing taco experience.
Each evening will feature two seatings, at 5 or 8:00 p.m.
$292 per person
Flavors of Film: The Goddesses of Food (March 15)
- Moderator: Kara Nielsen, Les Dames d’Escoffier SF Chapter president
- Suzette Gresham, Chef & Owner of Acquerello
- Liza Hinman, Chef & Owner of The Spinster Sisters
- Kim Alter, Chef & Owner of Nightbird
Union Square Tulip Day (March 22)
There are events planned throughout spring and summer
BLOOM Menu at Dirty Habit (ASAP)
Dirty Habit, Hotel Zelos’ vibe-y rooftop bar-centric restaurant, is bringing the floral festivities to life with two limited-time cocktails inspired by the season.
- The Red Orchid – A bold yet delicate blend of bourbon, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, agave syrup, and sweet vermouth
- Flower Power Spritz – A light, floral, and refreshing blend of vodka, elderflower liqueur, fresh lemon juice, and soda, topped with an edible flower garnish
Reservations Strongly Recommended
Canela’s New Cocktails (on-going)
Restaurants On My RADAR
My family recently spent a week in Honolulu, and while we ate at a LOT of restaurants while on Oahu, 100 Sails at the Prince Waikiki Hotel stands out.
In Oakland, the hot spot in Uptown is Jaji, a modern Afghan eatery. With saffron, turmeric, and peach fabrics fluttering from the ceiling and bright green chairs under dark gray tables, the vibe is as warm and welcoming as it is casual. Reserve a space to experience the cocktails – I particularly enjoyed a bourbon-forward Fig-Get About it (smoky! Sweet!) and a coupe of Not Grandma’s Chai, a spice-infused cocktail that felt reminiscent of sangria with warmer spices.
The drinks pair beautifully with dishes designed to share, like steak or lamb skewers, shola-quroti fermented yogurt croquettes and bolani triangles, mini pastires studied with roasted winter squash and topped with cilantro, dates and jalapeño. It’s all insanely fresh and updated and charming. I can’t think of anything like it but suspect imitators will soon follow.
New West Portal favorite George’s Donuts & Merriment turns the doughnut shop model on its head. The sweet space is kitted out with little tables and brass accents. Donuts like French crullers and key lime pie brioche, arrive atop sterling silver service pieces, grand presentations for the centerpiece-worthy donuts. There’s event a gluten-free vegan donut which had the right cakey texture and sweet cream topping.
Have you tried the new menu at San Francisco’s Anomaly? Yes, the Egg Emoji dish is still on the menu (how can Chef ever take it off?) and Egg 2 (The Remix) is here, as is Cabbage, Cabbage, Cabbage, a dish after my own heart, carrot Cloud, and a Fried Potato Dumpling with a champagne emulsion, Fontina cheese ice cream, and caviar.
Down the street from my old San Francisco apartment, in a space that was once a corner store, Anomaly chef Mike Lanham pulls flavor out of the most amazing places. The meal he made me (gluten-free, dairy-free and egg-free), especially the Yam Royale, hit my best of 2023 list for its insane deliciousness.
I was surprised during my time in Anaheim to discover Poppy & Seed, Kwini and chef Michael Reed’s well-appointed restaurant in the Packing District. It’s a jewel box space with warm lighting and cozy couches and a PS Old Fashoned softened with orange and chocolate mole bitter. Though I leaned into each dish, Smoked Duck left an indelible impression. Smoked over applewood then cured, the texture is a revelation. Paired with a basil, mint and shiso salad brigetned with pickled Anaheim chiles and frilly rice crips, the dish tasted of California and VIetnam and the American South, a bit of mouth happiness I won’t soon forget.
Lastly, one major disappointment: I took my Mom to Las Vegas to see the Cirque du Soleil show “O” in February (fabulous). On our second night in town, we went to Joel Robuchon’s Le Comptoir. Though I had informed the restaurant a month in advance of my food intolerances and I called three days before to confirm all, they were unable to accommodate me for the tasting menu. (My Mom enjoyed it solo.)
I was left with the a la carte menu, a motley crue of disparate dishes. A plate of jamón Serrano was so poorly sliced, I could barely chew it. An entree of rolled eggplant was dotted with nearly flavorless curry sauce, and a plate of pan con tomate sported the saddest winter tomatoes I have seen in a long while. Their pale color reflected their thin taste.
Robuchon, who passed in 2018, is rolling over in his grave. At least our server was nice, I guess?
Monthly Cookbook Column
If you had to pick a cookbook to conjure up your childhood, which cookbook would you choose? For me, the child of German-Czech immigrants, Luisa Weiss’s Classic German Cooking was a flavor-driven journey down memory lane.
i cannot be objective about this cookbook review – suffice to say I enjoyed every bite, even the fails.
Read the entire cookbook review on my website.
Find the book for purchase here.
Where to Read My Words
Are you ready, world? Cuz here comes three stories about sustainable packaging for Marin Magazine. Part One looks at alternatives to glass in the wine and spirits industry, to which I asked: Will Consumers Buy It? You’d be surprised who does.
Also for Marin Magazine, I looked at Mill Valley chef Michael Siegel, who got Michelin inspectors to come to Marin and pay attention to his cooking at Playa.
And for the spring issue of Edible Marin & Wine Country, I dug into all sorts of honey deliciousness.
Note: for the honey story, there was not enough room in print for one more experience, which I am including here (I really research too much for my own good):
Sana’a Honeycomb Bread
Honeycomb bread is a traditional breakfast item in Yemen, according to Manager Magdy Almuflihi of Sana’a Café, a Yemeni coffee house in San Rafael. The fluffy bread, made for Sana’a by a custom bakery in Hayward, is made by pressing scoops of ball-shaped dough into a round pan. Stuffed with cream cheese then baked to a golden brown, honeycomb bread contains no honey – that’s served on the side – but the cake’s bubbly look is reminiscent of honeycomb. “Honeycomb bread is really well known in Yemen,” says Almuflihi.
While I tried the regular honeycomb bread (addictive), seasonal flavors like pumpkin and cinnamon are also popular. The brand is planning a café for Petaluma “soon.”
About That Image
As I discussed above, my family spent a week on the Hawai’ian island of Oahu tin February, savoring the mix of Asian, European and tropical Hawaiian flavors that are unique to the islands. Ahi is on everyone’s menu and we ate plenty of this locally-sourced fish (hello, poke!). My shiso potato-wrapped seared ahi at 100 Sails could have been just another ahi dish. Chef Shigekane deserves another shout out for creating a memorable dish, one where the elegant fish is presented with loving care, its texture a testament to the efforts of the fisherman as much as the chef. I can’t get it out of my head.
Thanks for reading and be in touch.
Christina