Hello Friends,

After a few days in Boston, I’m in New York City for some more family time and to take in a show or two. Ok, ok, there will be plentiful eating experiences, too. But before I get to that, I must take note: It is spring. The weather outside is positively delightful – 73F and sunny. When it’s gorgeous outside, New York and Boston and everywhere in the Northeast are at their glorious peak. Restaurants are putting their cafe tables outside for the first time this season, refreshing the view and reminding me that outside is the best place to be. Well, until summer’s heat and humidity take over but that’s a ways away. For now, glorious spring and all the cherry blossoms, daffodils, tulips and forsythia that you can handle.

Spring is busting out all over the place. Forget your cares for a moment and go for a walk. Breathe. Remember the joy of the sun’s warmth on your face. And don’t forget to pack your allergy medicine.

What’s Hot: Wayfare Relocates, Burdell in the City, Pinot Fest, Julia Child at MAC, +

Not all together and not all at the same time. These are just a few of the food and food-adjacent events that have caught my attention as we move through spring.

Photograph by Paul Child. © Schlesinger Library, Harvard Radcliffe Institute

Burdell at The Madrigal (May 13)

As part of their Eat Like a Chef, Drink Like a Somm dinner series, Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group is bringing Chef Geoff Davis of Burdell Oakland and his intellectual approach to Soul Food to San Francisco’s 100 Van Ness (formerly known as The Madrigal) to cook a five-course dinner in partnership with Hi Neighbor Group’s Chef Jason Halvorson.

All proceeds from the event support Sprouts Chef Training, a nonprofit equipping youth to rise from hardship through culinary training and job placement.

Check out the dinner series and make reservations

Anderson Valley Pinot Fest (May 16-18)

Infos and Tickets for Pinot Noir Fest

Star Chefs and Vinters Gala (May 18)

Wayfare Tavern’s New Home

After 14 years, Chef Tyler Florence and his team are moving from 558 Sacramento Street in San Francisco’s FiDi about three blocks away to 201 Pine Street. As of April 28th, Wayfare Tavern the redux, is open and welcoming guests to enjoy American classic cuisine (that burger! That beef cheek Stroganoff!) and the familiar bustling vibes for which Florence restaurants have become known.

Plenty more details about the opening on SFGATE or just head over and see for yourself.

Make a Reservation

The MAC Opens with Julia Child Exhibit 

Get Tickets for “Julia Child: A Recipe for Life”

Wayfarer Opens in Healdsburg 

Make a Reservation

Where to Read My Work

In a three-part series for Marin Magazine on sustainable packaging, I went deep down the rabbit hole of waste. In Part One, published in February issue, I looked at new wine and spirits bottles.

Part Two, “A Clamshell By Any Other Name,” looks at the surge in takeout container waste and what restaurants and packaging companies are doing to make takeout more sustainable. Part Two is in print in the May issue (in homes now).

Part Three, which looks at the evolution in sustainable straw and cutlery materials, will be published later this year.

More coming soon!

Restaurants On My RADAR

For spring break, I took the boys to Arizona. It’s always a chance to visit with Mom and to play some golf. I’m terrible at the game but Lukas plays for his high school team. My Mom lives on a golf course, so….we did that and found our way to a restaurant or two.

None of us were particularly thrilled with TV personality and Chef Richard Blais’ Tiki Taka in Scottsdale. I was drawn to try the Spanish-Japanese flavors but, without the chef there to manage things, the Spanish flavors were too muted and the sushi was bland. I did like my Osaka Sour cocktail (image above left). Japanese whiskey clarified with almond milk and topped with a tempranillo red wine float. A beautiful drink to save the day.

We fared better at Phoenix’s Ocotillo. Much to the boys’ chagrin, we sat outside in 100+ degree heat, the palo verde blossoms dropping all around us. Into this beautiful setting (much appreciated by me and my Mom) came delicious, family-friendly fare zhushed up just enough to get our attention. Charred sweet potato arrived with pickled onion, avocado and a tahini sauce that brought it all together. Lumache pasta and pork ragú was “plated” in a cast iron skillet, dressed with pickled Calabrian chile and basil ribbons, and baby back ribs had that perfect texture one finds in the hands of a chef who appreciates a firm, not falling off the bone, bite. Nice.

In San Francisco, AB Steak in Union Square blew my son Niki’s socks off. The parade of steak – Australian, American and Japanese – is truly astounding. The banchan were enough to make a meal but I especially liked the presentation and flavor of the (far right image above) steak tartare (all those inclusions!) and the daikon radish salad (how did they make the daikon creamy?). After courses of banchan, tartare, three kinds of steak, soup and fried rice, even my teenage son was full. I never thought I’d see the day…

I was unfamiliar with the restaurant scene on Noriega in the Inner Sunset when I walked into San Francisco’s Fifty Vara. Owner Brian Reccow, who came up in operations for the Adriano Paganini universe of restaurants (Wild Seed, Beretta. A Mano, etc.) does his own thing here. One part beer hall, one part casual neighborhood joint, it’s a place to pop in for a pint and a burger, a plate of pasta, or a pizza, with or without the kids. I especially liked the halibut crudo and wished I could eat the crab fritters. Alas, gluten. =(

In Sausalito, Ditas, the fine dining restaurant above The Trident, is officially transitioning to Eria Cafe. Starting May 1st, the team there is pausing traditional dinner service to make room for more events. When one-Michelin Auro visited, I had the privilege of dining there. Chef Rogelio García switched up his service approach so his New American-slash-Mexican cuisine was served family style. Large, shareable plates of Flannery Rib Eye with mole negro and Rancho Gordo Ayacote Beans with grilled zucchini were highlights. The pint-sized coconut and chocolate paletas were a memorable finish.

Over in Marshall, Stuart Brioza (see above) kicked off the Tony & Friends dinner series at Tony’s Seafood. I took great pleasure in a local anchovy filleted and served with tomato sugo. I never thought I’d call an anchovy “creamy,” but here I am! Chef also subbed in crispy nuggets of rice pasta for the squid ink casarecce and clams. Tender clams, chewy pasta (loved the texture) all brought together with an umami sugo bath. Out of this world.

For the Birthday Girl

My dear friend, Wendy, celebrated a BIG BIRTHDAY in April. We headed to Liholiho Yacht Club for dinner. It is impossible to pick a favorite dish of the night but I’m going with the shrimp with longanisa, forbidden rice and chili crisp.

For drinks and bites beforehand, we reserved a table at Starlite atop the Beacon Grand Hotel. The weather was blustery so limited views, but who cares? Our server was a delight, my Boulevardier was just right, and the candle in the whiskey doughnut (center image, above) made the birthday girl clap with glee. It was a great reason to dress up.

Monthly Cookbook Column

Scott Clark, a chef with Michelin cred (Benu, Saison) ditched the Michelin-starred high life for something quieter on California’s Central Coast. Coastal, a cookbook packed with soulful, spirited flavor – and plenty of umami – is part of the result. It’s recipes he’s developed over his years of running Dad’s Luncheonette in Half Moon Bay.

Read the entire cookbook review on my website.

Find the book for purchase here.

What I’m Watching

Director Pablo Larraín has done something remarkable. In his movie, Maria, about the opera diva Maria Callas, who died in 1977, Larraín has left me longing to know more of her story, to listen to more of her performances. Angelina Jolie, who plays Callas in the years before she died, embodies the singer so completely, I almost forgot this is the same woman who played Lara Croft, Tomb Raider. Wow.

Soulful, spiritual, sad, uplifting, “Maria” is a gift of storytelling, a Greek-American diva reintroduced to a world that may not have heard her sing in real life but can savor every beautiful word that escapes her lips. Listen.

About That Image

It wasn’t my birthday but an evening spent celebrating a dear friend was so special. It all came together – the friends, the setting, the food, the drinks. The evening was an ineffable joy, something that happens when the alchemy of friends and circumstances (in this case, well-planned circumstances) come together to lift the energy and set things spinning.

At Starlite, we wanted something to eat with our cocktails but caviar and burgers or grilled cheese and seafood were not quite where we wanted to go. We landed on a whiskey doughnut and a potato pavé, a dish I’m seeing on more menus lately. Layers of crispy potato were lined with brava sauce and another sauce of black garlic. It was presented on a fun plate which felt in harmony with the view and the vibes. And, there was just enough for everyone in the group to try it. Perfect.

Thanks for reading and be in touch.

Christina