Where to Eat this Spring: 5 Places to Eat Now

overhead image of a tsukune chicken skewer with egg yolk tare

Where to Eat Now – Spring, Part One: March

San Francisco

empanadas on a plate drizzled with yellow aji amarillo sauce at XICA restaurant San Francisco
gluten-free empanadas at XICA

One night, I chose XICA for two reasons: It is 100% gluten-free Mexican food. Situated at Levi Plaza, it is within walking distance of San Francisco Exploratorium. The murals on the wall were stunning, the horchata was made only with rice milk (and totally dairy-free), and the extensive selection of margaritas gave my dining companion pause. We were both blown away by the empanadas.  Available stuffed with mushroom and kale or pork chicharrón (we chose pork), the exterior was crisp, the pork was gently spiced with tomatillo and cilantro. It made for delicious eating. I wished for another plate of them. 

overhead image of a tsukune chicken skewer with egg yolk tare You can see right through the ice cube to the graphic drawing of a long-haired woman in this Nightshade Nightmore cocktail from Shinji's at True Laurel

I popped into the Mission’s True Laurel to experience the cocktail pop-up from Shinji’s, True Laurel’s NYC doppelgänger. That is, a similarly tiny but mighty team known for crafting highly technical, custom-designed drinks and bites. I tried the Nightshade Nightmare, thrilling with notes of chocolate, the result of steeping potato and tomato peels in the whiskey, Crazy! Plus that clear ice cube and graphic coaster were so fun! Fresh and citrus-forward Sumac Society was and a nice match with the yakitori. Alongside a plate of traditional Japanese Curry, Chrysanthemum Salad, and a single Tsukune Meatball skewer (above), I fell for the Roasted Cabbage, an umami bomb of the nicest sort. I could hardly stop eating it.
Black Velvet Highball cocktail with Jerry Garcia painting in the background at PLS on Post restaurant
Black Velvet Highball – PLS on Post

I wish I had known about the game room downstairs at Union Square’s Hotel Zeppelin that backs up the in-house restaurant, PLS on Post. The situation is set up so nicely to bring families – approachable menu of burgers, shakes and classic cocktails for the adults. A Black Velvet highball was delicious, smoky mezcal with the zing of sarsaparilla and hint of chile from the jalapeño, nice.  I asked for a gluten-free bun on the burger which was served with griddled onions and a traditional lettuce, pickle, tomato set-up.  

whole roasted branzino on a gray plate topped with blood orange segments and basil
Branzino at Equal Parts
what looks like wood sticks make a cool arched entranceway to Equal Parts
Entranceway at Equal Parts

Across town in North Beach, I was struck by the stunning archway that is the entryway at Equal Parts. The long walk through the branches (as it were) served as a transition to the cozy room. The vibe of the evening – escape pod! – was thus set. I did not feel as though I was in North Beach any longer but in a coastal enclave, protected from the wind and any negative energy. (I want to stay here forever!) While Maitake Mushroom Tempura was a miss (all crunchy coating meant the mushroom experience went missing), I loved the Whole Branzino, served head on, with blood orange and basil.  A menu special pea soup was a creamy-sweet reminder of spring, the Dungeness atop mixed with salsa macha. Nice.

North Bay

In Marin, I take a look at the county’s latest openings – Sausalito’s Cultivar and Sartaj Indian Cafe, San Rafael’s El Tucán Tacos & Beer, Forest Knolls’ Paper Mill Creek Saloon, Corte Madera’s Super Duper Burgers, and Ross’ Taqueria Marin for The Marin Dish.

Hokkaido scallop nestled in rice with a swirl of green curry at Songbird parlour in Glen Ellen
Hokkaido Scallop at Songbird Parlour

Further north in the Sonoma County town of Glen Ellen, I finally got to experience Chef Miller McRae’s food at Songbird Parlour. Seared Pork Belly with Chilean date and demi-glace-enriched mole was deliciously rich; a zing of vinegar made the dish entirely Californian. Citrus and sweet potato made magic on a plate of Kampachi Crudo. But my dish of the night was Hokkaido Scallop. Yes, the scallop was pristine and cooked right but it was the twists and turns in the Thai curry rice that made the dish impossible to stop eating.

Yum.