- Yellowfin Tuna Crudo
- Shaved Asparagus (left) and Shaved Brussels Sprouts (right) salads
- jw Chicken with Salsa Verde
Do you ever walk into a restaurant and a memory of a previous visit there snaps into focus? When I stepped into the blue-washed 2025 iteration of Park Tavern, I did not recognize it, at first. The dark walnut paneling of yore is gone (I remember them from a networking event I attend), replaced with shimmery pale blue tiles. I would swear the windows are bigger, too, letting in cascades of sun-setting light. The vibe now is more California (or Greek taverna?) than New York. Once the sun set behind the trees along Washington Square Park, I felt more at ease, the tables full, the bustle palpable, the mood in the room about business casual dinners and couples on second dates.
This is how Park Tavern should be, I thought. We were seated right by the front window with views over the park — nice, if a bit drafty when the breeze kicked up. I had read the San Francisco Chronicle’s barn-burning review before I stepped foot inside and really had no idea what to expect. But, so far so good.
What to Eat
We started with a sunny plate of Yellowfin Tuna Crudo ($24), prepared with competence and supremely fresh. I did ask for salt as I wanted to add a touch more to the dish – a shaker arrived paired with pepper. Both my dinner date and I raved about the Shaved Asparagus Salad ($19) – seasonal, fresh, a little bit edgy – even with the whipped goat cheese placed on the side. Delicious. Though I might’ve liked Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad ($19) to be not quite so finely grated, this salad was also good, the pomegranate, pecorino, and lemon all working together to amp up the flavor.
I did not try any of the pastas or pizza as no gluten-free option was available. I did like my jw Chicken ($42), the “jw” pinned to the dish to highlight a Chef Jonathan Waxman classic. (Waxman, as noted in the Chron piece, is on board as a partner.) A side of jw fries was perfect – crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. I left none on the plate.
As for Grilled Pork Chop ($36) … I go back and forth on how well-done pork should be. I prefer a pinkish center but I suspect most people would send it back if cooked that way, claiming it is underdone. Lacking that hint of pink, the pork (in my opinion) was a bit over-cooked.
I wondered, too, about desserts. There is tiramisu and a spumoni sundae, a nod to the North Beach neighborhood, as well as chocolate chip cookies and apple crostata. Yet no dessert option for a vegan diner or a gluten-free diner. It felt like a missed opportunity.
About the Service
Other than forgetting to pack up my chicken (and me forgetting to ask for it), service was lovely and our food and drinks were prepared without any obvious mistakes. Our server noted by food intolerances and came by once dishes were presented to confirm all was safe. Efficient, friendly, and just that one touch forgetful.
Is It Worth It?
This iteration of Park Tavern felt comfortable and refreshed. The bar was hopping and the door was swinging with new diners coming in, even as we left after 9. With 100 Italian restaurants within a couple of blocks, maybe all people want is a classic cocktail (I had a Boulevardier – $17) and a plate of Pappardelle with Bolognese ($28). I’d call it a great date night place, a little bit dressy without the white linen drapery or expectations of 75 years in business as the neighbors have. I envision those Italianate wicker chairs at the outside tables packed on warm summer afternoons.
The opportunity for a fresh start and a new crowd of fans to call this their “San Francisco treat” is within their reach.