The owner of Roy’s Koji BBQ truck and author of L.A. Son reflects on his tao of cooking in his latest cookbook, The Choi of Cooking. The joy in the title may reference an earlier instruction manual on cooking, but in Choi’s capable hands, “joy” becomes “Choi” and life is even more delicious for the effort.
Choi 2.0
If Choi’s style of cooking as a younger man was willful abandon of the hierarchies that built an earlier generation of restaurant kitchen culture, his style now as a much wealthier and older, more sober and thoughtful man is not much changed. Big hits of flavor using mostly classic European techniques paired with flavors from the Asian-American culinary cannon to build something uniquely Choi and uniquely Californian are at the heart of Choi’s new cookbook. What I sense more of in The Choi of Cooking is Choi wanting to share not just his story but his love of cooking. He wants his reader to keep living, telling us to “fill your life with flavors so vibrant, so good, it will possess you.” This book, he tells us, is his heart and his soul. Can it be yours?
I don’t see why not. Choi freely calls his dishes “mash-ups” and there’s nothing wrong with that. Find flavor with whatever you have at hand. His Shitake Goat Cheese Frittata (p. 127) is classic Italian and simple, because, really, what more do you need? Excellent ingredients can shine with little more than a splash of oil, heat and salt. Choi doesn’t care if you use whole eggs or just the whites – the personalization of cooking is the process. Don’t stick to a recipe just because it’s Choi’s. Make it yours.
Get In Where You Fit In in The Choi of Cooking
Choi calls this “getting in where you fit in,” and it is a thread he pulls throughout the book. Need more greens in your life? Transform Roast Pork Tacos (p. 217) into a salad. Choi provides recipes for the Pico de Gallo, Salsa Roja, and Bomb-Ass Frijoles for Bean and Cheese Burritos (p. 87) but Choi will not judge if you buy jarred sauce and canned beans to turn the dish into a weeknight meal. Live free, or die, as long as feeding yourself healthfully and flavorfully brings you some measure of joy – ahem! – Choi.
Recipes I Made
Roasted Beets
Chicken Stir-fry
I started with Tuna Salad Niçoise Bibimbap (p. 93), the name a calling back to the style of presentation – lots of veg topped with egg and tuna. Choi suggests topping it with potato chips but I made classic boiled potatoes instead, using the same cooking water to boil the eggs. Simple, and a perfect dinner on a warm September evening.
To no ill effect, I used minced lemongrass out of a tube for Choi’s Roasted Beets with Chili Crisp, Cilantro and Lime (p. 76), serving them alongside roasted chicken and rice. The rice soaked up the extra sauce, a nice bonus. We regularly order chicken and green beans from our favorite Chinese restaurant so making Green Bean and Chicken Stir-fry (p. 203) was a no-brainer. Fresher than the restaurant’s version and made with organic chicken, so presumably, a bit healthier, too. I used the accompanying picture to guesstimate what Choi meant by “chicken, chopped into pieces the size of what you would get at Panda Express.” I can’t say I’ve ever ordered food there but the kids knew EXACTLY what Choi meant.
I made Kimchi Philly Cheesesteaks (p. 229), with leftover chicken thighs and leftover hamburger beef. (I hate wasting food.) To make the Butter Kimchi Jam (p. 254) called for as a topping I bought a jar of vegan kimchi at Occidental’s Altamont General Store, the fresh carrots and turnips adding vibrant color to the dish. The Choi of this dish is in the buttered bun and the jam, adding oomph with minimal cooking time. The boys loved the sandwich so much, I made it again for dinner the next night. I bet it would work with tofu or mushrooms, too.
Who Would Like This Cookbook
Do you like mixing flavors to make something fun and exciting? Did you enjoy the 2014 John Favreau movie “Chef?” Do you know what “no cap” means? Choi’s cookbook is approachable and spirited, sprinkled with slang and curse words and a passion for helping you feed yourself well. No risk-taking required – Choi will meet you where you’re at. That means YOU!
I was provided a preview copy of The Choi of Cooking.
